{"id":115049,"date":"2025-03-12T13:28:50","date_gmt":"2025-03-12T12:28:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.retaildetail.be\/?p=115049"},"modified":"2025-03-12T13:28:51","modified_gmt":"2025-03-12T12:28:51","slug":"boohoo-devient-debenhams-la-fin-de-la-fast-fashion","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.retaildetail.be\/fr\/news\/mode\/boohoo-devient-debenhams-la-fin-de-la-fast-fashion\/","title":{"rendered":"Boohoo devient Debenhams : la fin de la fast-fashion ?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Le groupe de mode britannique Boohoo <\/strong>change de nom et devient le groupe Debenhams<\/strong>, un changement strat\u00e9gique qui met en lumi\u00e8re les d\u00e9fis croissants de la fast-fashion. Alors que Debenhams a r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 se d\u00e9barrasser de son image guind\u00e9e, ses marques pour jeunes, autrefois branch\u00e9es, sont en chute libre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le gagnant devient perdant, ou pas ?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Les analystes notent que le changement de nom est une reconnaissance claire de la faible performance des marques de mode rapide du groupe. Pourtant, ils n’avaient pas pr\u00e9dit la m\u00eame chose il y a \u00e0 peine quatre ans, lorsque l’acteur du commerce \u00e9lectronique Boohoo a rachet\u00e9 Debenhams (ou ce qu’il en restait) en faillite. Peu de temps apr\u00e8s, la derni\u00e8re succursale de la cha\u00eene de grands magasins fond\u00e9e en 1778 a ferm\u00e9 ses portes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le contraste ne pouvait \u00eatre plus grand : Debenhams \u00e9tait une ic\u00f4ne des rues commer\u00e7antes britanniques depuis pr\u00e8s d’un si\u00e8cle, avec tout le plomb inhibiteur qui en d\u00e9coule. Comme d’autres grands magasins, la cha\u00eene \u00e9tait paralys\u00e9e par de lourdes d\u00e9penses immobili\u00e8res et de personnel, mais en plus, elle \u00e9tait d\u00e9pass\u00e9e par de jeunes acteurs qui apportaient l’innovation et la num\u00e9risation n\u00e9cessaires.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’un de ces jeunes challengers \u00e9tait Boohoo, un groupe britannique de marques pour la jeunesse qui s’\u00e9tait enti\u00e8rement engag\u00e9 dans le commerce \u00e9lectronique et la mode (tr\u00e8s) rapide. Contrairement \u00e0 Debenhams, Boohoo a pu tirer pleinement parti de la pand\u00e9mie du Covid, tandis que ses cha\u00eenes d’approvisionnement plus courtes ont \u00e9galement pu r\u00e9pondre beaucoup plus rapidement \u00e0 l’\u00e9volution rapide des pr\u00e9f\u00e9rences des clients. Les jeunes que Debenhams avait perdus achetaient volontiers des v\u00eatements Boohoo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 l’\u00e9poque, il ne faisait aucun doute que l’avenir \u00e9tait en ligne. Boohoo a donc propos\u00e9 55 millions de livres (60 millions d’euros) \u00e0 Debenhams pour en faire la \u00ab plus grande place de march\u00e9 \u00bb du Royaume-Uni.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les jeunes ne l’aiment plus<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Quatre ans plus tard, les r\u00f4les sont compl\u00e8tement invers\u00e9s. Le repositionnement de Debenhams en tant que grand magasin en ligne de premier plan est une r\u00e9ussite : au cours de l’exercice \u00e9coul\u00e9 (jusqu’\u00e0 la fin du mois de f\u00e9vrier), les ventes brutes du grand magasin en ligne ont augment\u00e9 de 33,8 % pour atteindre 654 millions de livres (760 millions d’euros), ce qui repr\u00e9sente 28,2 % des ventes du groupe. En fait, il semble d\u00e9sormais possible de faire de Debenhams une entreprise d’un milliard de dollars. \u00c0 moyen terme, une marge b\u00e9n\u00e9ficiaire de 20 % serait m\u00eame envisageable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En revanche, les marques de mode rapide du groupe, dont PrettyLittleThing, Boohoo et BoohooMan, perdent beaucoup de terrain. La valeur brute des ventes au d\u00e9tail (GMV) avant retours a chut\u00e9 de 21,8 % pour atteindre 1,5 milliard de livres (1,7 milliard d’euros) au cours du dernier exercice. Et ce, apr\u00e8s une baisse de 13,3 % au cours de l’exercice pr\u00e9c\u00e9dent\u2026 Pour tenter de sauver l’entreprise, PrettyLittleThing a proc\u00e9d\u00e9 la semaine derni\u00e8re \u00e0 un changement de marque, avec des styles plus intemporels et des prix plus \u00e9lev\u00e9s, mais cette initiative a \u00e9t\u00e9 accueillie tr\u00e8s ti\u00e8dement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aujourd’hui, les jeunes clients qui veulent les prix les plus bas et les derni\u00e8res tendances se tournent vers Shein – une concurrence que Boohoo ne peut pas gagner. Le groupe a ensuite tent\u00e9 de changer de cap en se positionnant comme plus durable et de meilleure qualit\u00e9, mais il ne parvient pas \u00e0 \u00e9tayer suffisamment ces affirmations aupr\u00e8s des consommateurs critiques. L’entreprise a \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9nonc\u00e9e \u00e0 plusieurs reprises ces derni\u00e8res ann\u00e9es pour de fausses affirmations en mati\u00e8re de d\u00e9veloppement durable et m\u00eame d’esclavage moderne. En outre, les jeunes consommateurs se tournent de plus en plus vers la seconde main et les collections capsules, ce qui r\u00e9duit la demande de fast-fashion bon march\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Debenhams reprend le contr\u00f4le<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Ironiquement, Boohoo se tourne maintenant vers le bon vieux Debenhams pour obtenir de l’aide. Outre le changement de nom, Phil Ellis devient le nouveau directeur financier : il occupait auparavant ce poste chez Debenhams et travaillera en \u00e9troite collaboration avec le PDG Dan Finley pour acc\u00e9l\u00e9rer la transition vers une entreprise dirig\u00e9e par Debenhams.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Boohoo reconna\u00eet que les conditions de march\u00e9 restent difficiles pour ses marques destin\u00e9es aux jeunes. Le groupe a fortement d\u00e9cot\u00e9 ses stocks pour corriger son bilan et a revu ses d\u00e9penses de marketing, ce qui p\u00e8se sur les performances \u00e0 court terme, mais malgr\u00e9 ces vents contraires, l’entreprise reste optimiste quant \u00e0 son potentiel \u00e0 long terme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le repositionnement de Boohoo en Debenhams Group t\u00e9moigne d’un changement de cap manifeste : l’accent est moins mis sur la mode rapide et davantage sur la croissance durable gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 un mod\u00e8le de place de march\u00e9 et \u00e0 des marques bien \u00e9tablies. Il faudra voir dans les ann\u00e9es \u00e0 venir si cette strat\u00e9gie est suffisante pour relever les d\u00e9fis structurels du secteur de la mode\u2026.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Le groupe de mode britannique Boohoo change de nom et devient le groupe Debenhams, un changement strat\u00e9gique qui met en lumi\u00e8re les d\u00e9fis croissants de la fast-fashion. Alors que Debenhams a r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 se d\u00e9barrasser de son image guind\u00e9e, ses marques pour jeunes, autrefois branch\u00e9es, sont en chute libre.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":114985,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[22],"tags":[],"people":[],"extra":[43],"company":[743,1654],"topic":[275],"region":[381],"class_list":["post-115049","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-mode","extra-plus","company-boohoo","company-debenhams","topic-analyse","region-royaume-uni"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nBoohoo devient Debenhams : la fin de la fast-fashion ? - RetailDetail BE<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Boohoo change de nom et devient Debenhams, un changement strat\u00e9gique qui met en 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