{"id":131224,"date":"2025-10-10T12:29:17","date_gmt":"2025-10-10T10:29:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.retaildetail.be\/?p=131224"},"modified":"2025-10-10T12:29:18","modified_gmt":"2025-10-10T10:29:18","slug":"analyse-la-durabilite-est-elle-passee-de-mode","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.retaildetail.be\/fr\/news\/mode\/analyse-la-durabilite-est-elle-passee-de-mode\/","title":{"rendered":"[Analyse] La durabilit\u00e9 est-elle pass\u00e9e de mode ?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

De plus en plus d’entreprises de mode r\u00e9visent leurs objectifs climatiques ou abandonnent leurs projets CSR. La durabilit\u00e9 est-elle d\u00e9pass\u00e9e dans un paysage social et politique qui fixe d’autres priorit\u00e9s ? Ou bien des ph\u00e9nom\u00e8nes tels que le \u00ab greenhushing \u00bb brouillent-ils l’image ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab Le moral est au plus bas \u00bb<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab Le moral est au plus bas \u00bb, a-t-on pu entendre lors de la r\u00e9union annuelle de Cascale, l’ancienne Sustainable Apparel Coalition, qui repr\u00e9sente 40 % de l’industrie mondiale de l’habillement. La liste des entreprises qui ont revu \u00e0 la baisse leurs objectifs de durabilit\u00e9 s’allonge en effet : Asos et Crocs ont mis fin \u00e0 leurs plans climatiques en 2023, Nike a supprim\u00e9 un tiers de son \u00e9quipe charg\u00e9e de la durabilit\u00e9 en 2024. Walmart n’a pas non plus atteint ses objectifs en mati\u00e8re d’\u00e9missions et Under Armour a annonc\u00e9 cet \u00e9t\u00e9 qu’il ne r\u00e9affirmerait pas ses objectifs pour 2030 et 2050.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La semaine derni\u00e8re, Ralph Lauren a abandonn\u00e9 son objectif \u00ab z\u00e9ro \u00e9mission nette \u00bb pour 2040. M\u00eame parmi les marques qui tiennent leurs promesses, pr\u00e8s des deux tiers sont en retard sur leur calendrier. 40 % suppl\u00e9mentaires ont vu leurs \u00e9missions augmenter depuis la fixation de leurs objectifs. \u00ab On a l’impression que tous ces efforts sont r\u00e9duits \u00e0 n\u00e9ant \u00e0 mesure qu’une nouvelle r\u00e9alit\u00e9 politique s’installe \u00bb, explique Harsh Saini, PDG par int\u00e9rim de Cascale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le danger du \u00ab greenhushing \u00bb<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Mais est-ce vraiment le cas ? La durabilit\u00e9 est-elle pass\u00e9e de mode ? \u00ab Les entreprises comprennent que la durabilit\u00e9 renforce leur r\u00e9silience<\/a>. La gestion des risques s’am\u00e9liore et, in\u00e9vitablement, les b\u00e9n\u00e9fices suivent \u00e0 un moment donn\u00e9 \u00bb, a imm\u00e9diatement poursuivi Saini. Comme l’a soulign\u00e9 le professeur Koen Schoors de l’universit\u00e9 de Gand lors de l’\u00e9v\u00e9nement Captains of Retail en septembre, le moment o\u00f9 les solutions circulaires et vertes seront les plus rentables \u00e9conomiquement approche \u00e0 grands pas. (Revoyez ici la pr\u00e9sentation en tant que membre de RetailDetail.)<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cependant, l’\u00e9chelle est alors essentielle, et c’est l\u00e0 que le b\u00e2t blesse actuellement. Ironiquement, de nombreuses entreprises travaillent en silence, et donc seules, et font plus qu’elles n’osent le dire. Une enqu\u00eate men\u00e9e aupr\u00e8s de PDG en 2025 r\u00e9v\u00e8le que 88 % des cadres sup\u00e9rieurs consid\u00e8rent que les arguments \u00e9conomiques en faveur de la durabilit\u00e9 sont plus solides qu’il y a cinq ans. Pourtant, seule la moiti\u00e9 d’entre eux se sentent \u00e0 l’aise pour parler publiquement de leurs progr\u00e8s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Un nombre croissant d’entreprises choisissent donc de garder le silence sur leurs objectifs de durabilit\u00e9 par crainte des critiques, un ph\u00e9nom\u00e8ne connu sous le nom de \u00ab greenhushing \u00bb. Bien que ce silence strat\u00e9gique cache une certaine r\u00e9silience op\u00e9rationnelle, il constitue \u00e9galement un danger : si tout le monde se tait, le secteur passe \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 d’opportunit\u00e9s d’apprendre les uns des autres et perd son \u00e9lan collectif.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab Baisse du CA de plus de 10 % \u00bb<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Et cela \u00e0 un moment critique : le mod\u00e8le lin\u00e9aire de l’industrie de la mode \u00e9volue aujourd’hui in\u00e9vitablement vers un mod\u00e8le (plus) circulaire dans lequel les produits sont r\u00e9utilis\u00e9s, r\u00e9par\u00e9s, recycl\u00e9s ou revendus. Le fondateur de RetailDetail, Jorg Snoeck, pr\u00e9voit m\u00eame une \u00ab baisse du chiffre d’affaires de plus de 10 % \u00bb<\/a>pour les acteurs traditionnels.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Que ce soit en raison de la rar\u00e9faction des mati\u00e8res premi\u00e8res, du succ\u00e8s des plateformes de vente d’occasion, de la l\u00e9gislation europ\u00e9enne ou de la combinaison de tous ces facteurs, cela conduit dans tous les cas \u00e0 \u00ab une baisse structurelle des volumes de vente primaires \u00bb. Le ralentissement des chiffres de croissance des d\u00e9taillants de mode dans le monde entier en est d\u00e9j\u00e0 le t\u00e9moin silencieux.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

De plus en plus d’entreprises de mode r\u00e9visent leurs objectifs climatiques ou abandonnent leurs projets socialement responsables. La durabilit\u00e9 est-elle d\u00e9pass\u00e9e dans un paysage social et politique qui fixe d’autres priorit\u00e9s ? Ou des ph\u00e9nom\u00e8nes tels que le \u00ab greenhushing \u00bb brouillent-ils l’image ?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":131225,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[14,22],"tags":[],"people":[],"extra":[43],"company":[],"topic":[275,373],"region":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-131224","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-mode","9":"extra-plus","10":"topic-analyse","11":"topic-durabilite"},"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n[Analyse] La durabilit\u00e9 est-elle pass\u00e9e de mode ? - RetailDetail BE<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"La durabilit\u00e9 est-elle d\u00e9pass\u00e9e ? 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